Ornate "Ma'anakeh" (or Ma'nage) women's necklace. Sana'a, Yemen, [early 20th century].
Silver, filigree and granulation; cotton thread; gemstone.
Reserved for festive occasions, this necklace was one of the distinctive trademarks of Sana'a's Jewish women. It was worn by both adult women and young women, and in particular, by new mothers at the various ceremonies associated with childbirth. It would typically represent one of the wedding presents purchased by the father of the bride with the dowry money gifted by the bridegroom or his family. Its massive weight was meant to serve as evidence of the wearer's socioeconomic status.
The strings of beads, twisted at their centers, are composed of tiny round or octagonal ("mathmanat") beads, some made from silver granules (i.e., granulation) reminiscent of the drupelets of the mulberries that grow in Yemen and symbolize fecundity and a sweet life. At the base of the triangles at the ends ("tata'arif") are thirteen holes for beaded chains, but only ten chains remain.
A large silver ring is tied onto to the clasp (a cotton strand). This ring, inlaid with a large red gemstone, is also decorated in filigree and granulation.
Approx. 17X17 cm. Missing chains.
References: In All Their Finery: Jewels from the Jewish World, item no. 11; Ma'ase Rokem, p. 34; the Hebrew-language website of the Association for Society and Culture, Documentation and Research of Yemenite Jews: teman.org.il.